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中国精品科技期刊2020

胶原蛋白肽在皮肤抗光老化中的作用及其研究进展

The Role of Collagen Peptide in Anti-photoaging of Skin and Its Research Progress

  • 摘要: 皮肤光老化是由紫外线诱导的多通路协同失衡过程,其核心机制包括氧化应激增强、慢性炎症反应激活及细胞外基质(extracellular matrix,ECM)代谢紊乱。胶原蛋白肽(collagen peptide,CP)可通过清除活性氧、增强内源性抗氧化酶活性、抑制MAPK和NF-κB信号通路介导的炎症反应,并调控基质金属蛋白酶与其抑制因子的平衡,从而减缓胶原降解并促进ECM重构。动物实验和体外研究结果具有较好一致性,多项随机双盲临床试验也证实口服CP在改善皮肤水合度、弹性及减少皱纹方面具有积极效果,且安全性良好。低分子量、富含脯氨酸和羟脯氨酸的特定肽段被认为是其关键活性形式。未来研究需进一步阐明CP的体内作用靶点及结构–功能关系,并通过长期临床研究验证其抗光老化效应,以推动其在皮肤健康领域的规范化应用。

     

    Abstract: Skin photoaging is a ultraviolet radiation-induced, multi-pathway dysregulation process, driven primarily by heightened oxidative stress, chronic inflammatory activation, and disruption of extracellular matrix (ECM) metabolism. Collagen peptides (CP) mitigate photoaging by scavenging reactive oxygen species, enhancing endogenous antioxidant enzyme activities, suppressing MAPK- and NF-κB-mediated inflammatory signalling, and modulating the balance between matrix metalloproteinases and their inhibitors, thereby attenuating collagen degradation and promoting ECM remodelling. Findings from animal and in vitro studies are largely concordant, and multiple randomized double-blind clinical trials further demonstrate that oral CP improves skin hydration and elasticity and reduces wrinkles, with a favourable safety profile. Specific low-molecular-weight peptide fractions enriched in proline and hydroxyproline are regarded as the key bioactive forms. Future studies should elucidate the in vivo targets and structure-function relationships of CP and confirm its anti-photoaging efficacy in long-term clinical investigations, thereby supporting its standardized application in skin health.

     

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